Getting off the train at Guilin, a voluble fellow traveler confides that rat is one of the local specialty foods. As usual, there is a suspicion of inaccuracy about the information. At least in this case, the confider is eager rather than disdainful. (Not that rats aren’t and haven’t been eaten: according to the venerable Larousse Gastronomique, entrecôte à la Bordelaise was not originally a premium cut of grilled bos served with a sauce of shallot and the local red wine but rather the species rattus, preferably from the cellar, served up in like manner.) A day and half later, and we have just finished ordering a meal of battered squash of various sorts, freshwater shrimp, and a “water duck.” At least, we think we have finished ordering. The only problem is that the specific duck to be consumed needs to be selected, and the head of the table is beckoned outside to the vivarium to pronounce judgment.
Soon a handsome mallard drake is netted, weighed, and about to make its trip to the kitchen. But then, under a cage of fearsome looking snakes, we see some furry creatures that are certainly those “rats.” At 128 yuan per catty—almost 20 dollars—we try to order a small one. It turns out that they all weigh pretty close to three catty (some four pounds). These “rats” are certainly dear, but must be tried. The duck receives a reprieve. Twenty minutes later our squash and shrimp is accompanied by a wok, placed over a flame to keep it piping hot, full of rodent sautéed with black mushrooms and ginger. It is, as the waitress who coaxed us to try it proclaimed, well worth the expense for a special treat.
So, what is this “rat”? It is Rhizomys sinensis, and is actually eaten in various parts of Southern China and Southeast Asia. While we oppose the consumption of any endangered species—pangolin is certainly not on our menu—these oversized hamsters do not make the list. On the contrary, they are farming pests and compete with giant pandas for their mutually preferred food of bamboo (although the cuddly panda will occasionally turn carnivore and eat the rodents!). In Chinese they are not called “rats” at all, but rather 竹豬 (zhu zhu) or “bamboo pigs.”
Coda: Somewhat improbably we bumped into our fellow traveler a couple of days later as our separate skiffs were pulling up to a restaurant on the banks of the Li River. He had tried and enjoyed the dish as well; not really a “rat” at all, he noted. Indeed.
I remember during high school English class, while studying Farley Mowat and other writers who had spent time in the Yukon and Klondike regions, that a recipe for "souris à la creme" was discussed. I have eaten emu, but not too keen to venture into the rodent/lagomorph arena.
ReplyDeleteLet's see, rodents I have eaten... rabbit, of course (though usually overpriced in our area in CA); nutria, in the form of sausage in Louisiana; porcupine (locally hunted and cooked by a friend's uncle here in HK). I would like to try burgoo someday (the Kentucky squirrel stew that also sometimes contains marsupial in the form of opossum). So far, rabbit is my favorite- great for pâté and for boning and stuffing.
ReplyDeleteGreat post. The squash looks really good (I know, not the point, but still!)
ReplyDeleteNow I know what those furry creatures in the cage are! They're rather cute actually. Great blog, I will be tuning in frequently to see what new thing you and the boys are trying.
ReplyDeleteas in zhu zhu pets? love seeing the boys (including jim!).
ReplyDeleteWe need to get you out to Quito, where they serve guinea pig. It tastes like turkey. And you don't even have to give thanks for anything.
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